Garden Pergolas Norfolk.
Built to Stand Out.

Most pergolas fall within Permitted Development rights and do not require planning permission, provided they are within the standard height limits for garden structures (max 2.5m to the eaves for structures within 2m of a boundary; max 4m ridge height elsewhere). A pergola with a solid roof may be treated as an outbuilding by some planners, so we always assess the specific design against PD rules during the design process. Listed properties and conservation areas have different rules.

A pergola is typically an open or semi-open structure, posts with beams and an open or slatted roof, designed to define space and support climbing plants or provide partial shade. A gazebo is usually a fully enclosed or roofed freestanding structure with a defined octagonal or hexagonal shape. We build bespoke pergolas in all configurations, including with solid roofs; if you want a fully enclosed, weatherproof structure we'd typically call that a garden room or covered patio structure.

We concrete-set all pergola posts as standard, driven ground spikes are suitable for lightweight decorative structures but are not appropriate for the post sizes and loading we build to. For pergolas over existing hard surfaces (paving, concrete, or decking), we use heavy-duty steel baseplate post anchors bolted through the surface into a concrete fixing. We never use plastic post spikes on a structure we've engineered for longevity.

A correctly built and maintained timber pergola should last 20–30 years. The key factor is timber species and treatment: green oak and Douglas fir are naturally durable and need minimal maintenance beyond an occasional oil; pressure-treated softwood needs re-treating every 2–3 years to maintain protection. Posts are the most vulnerable element, we always set them in concrete to keep the timber out of ground contact, which dramatically extends service life.

Yes, wall-mounted or lean-to pergolas are popular because they reduce the number of posts needed and create a natural transition between inside and outside. We fix to masonry using appropriate wall plates and rawl anchors, always into the structural masonry rather than render or insulation layers. We also ensure any roof drainage is directed away from the house and won't cause damp issues at the wall junction.